Mode Illustree
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![]() Color Engraving of Two Victorian Ladies 1875 1886 La Mode Illustree 209 9 x 12 $9.99 Time Remaining: 4h 19m |
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![]() FashionFranceLe Mode Illustree1890sLarge Hand Colored Litho18 $0.99 (1 Bid) Time Remaining: 1d 9h 44m |
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![]() Vintage Fashion Print Anais Toudouze La Mode Illustree 1939 IBFisher $9.99 Time Remaining: 1d 14h 38m |
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![]() La Mode Illustree Fashion Paris Print Circa 1880s $19.99 Time Remaining: 2d 15h 21m |
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![]() Victorian Large LADIES FASHION PRINT La Mode Illustree Bureux Du Journal Paris $40.00 Time Remaining: 3d 17h 2m |
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![]() 1939 La Mode Illustree Bureaux du Journal 56 rue Leroy Paris $5.00 Time Remaining: 4d 12h 53m |
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![]() La Mode Illustree Hand Tinted Print Framed Art Victorian Picture $10.00 Time Remaining: 1d 11h 19m |
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![]() VINTAGE Antique Victorian La MODE Art SHADOW BOX French Illustree $99.00 (2 Bids) Time Remaining: 3d 13h 40m |
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![]() la mode illustree print 1860s originial $80.00 Time Remaining: 4d 6h 8m |
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![]() Beautiful Oval Franed Victorian La Mode Illustree $29.99 Time Remaining: 5d 5h 36m |
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How to make a Victorian gown based upon a picture?
I am working on a design portfolio that focuses on historical costume. I've made historic clothing before, using historic patterns with great success... But now I would like to make a dress that i found in a copy of "La Mode Illustree" (circa 1870's). I am looking for advice on how to draft a pattern or to drape the actual dress, how to make the closures (since the dress doesn't appear to have any), what textiles would be appropriate, etc. Any advice or suggested reading would be awesome. Please please please please help!!!!
I would need to see a copy of the illustration to help you. What I would do, though, is try to find a pattern that basically resembles the dress you're trying to make, if possible, and then add details.
I'd start with seeing if there's a Past Pattern that would work, since these are already sized for modern adults and are completely authentic. (If you're trying to make as authentic-as-possible dress.) With a pattern to give you the basic bodice and skirt shape (which may be VERY different from that in modern patterns) you then could add whatever overskirt or trim you needed to in order to get the look of the dress you saw in La Mode Ilustree.
Try the links below to look at other current patterns for c. 1870s garments.
Remember that for this time period you will almost HAVE to have a long corset and some type of bustle for all but the last years of the decade. You really need these before you start your dress, because you'll need to fit your dress over them. While you're getting your corset, you might go ahead and check into getting some extra bones for your bodice. Most of the bodices of this era are going to be boned, and I've never had as much luck with that modern plastic boning you get at the local fabric store....but you CAN use it in a pinch.
I'd bet that the dress you're looking at fastens with tiny brass hooks and eyes in the back; some ball gowns DID lace up the back occasionally. It's hard to speculate without seeing a picture of the dress. This is where a Past Pattern would help you.
If you can't find or use one of the pre-made patterns, then try this route:
If you look on Ebay, there are some sellers who have original 1870s Harper's Bazaars with the pattern sheets intact. These patterns are *fun* to use because they are printed on top of each other and you have to trace them. You also have to size them yourself but it might give you a start and the general shape of the period bodice. I'd get some of these myself, but they're in poor condition and I don't have a good place to store them.
The next idea is to look at the books "Patterns of Fashion" -there's one that covers the 1870s. I think it's the one in the gold cover. These are also scaled patterns and you are really going to have to be a good seamstress, but it's certainly do-able. The book The Cut of Women's Clothes might also have something.
If you just want the 1870s silhouette and don't care as much about authentic cut, then check out the modern pattern catalogs in the costume section. I've never used these, but some of them might be okay.
Now, for your fabric. If you're making a really "dressy" dress, you're probably going to need some relatively heavy fabric and lots of it. A nice damask or brocade-looking upholstery fabric is sometimes perfect. Sometimes you can buy rolls of this in weird colors at local Goodwill or thrift stores. You might call around. And of course check the "sale" bins at the fabric store.
You could also use a solid-color wool for a winter costume, velvet (if you can afford it
or a cotton. Don't discount using a calico if you're making a day-dress. The book Calico Chronicle has photos of calico 1870s dresses at Texas Tech museum- people used what fabric they had or could afford.
For an evening or ball-type gown, you CAN use modern taffetas. I don't like them, but sometimes we just don't have any choice. If you could find something resembling a corded fabric, like a faille, that would be good. At least try to get a HEAVY taffeta. You might also check into a not-very-shiny satin, like a Duchesse satin.
The problem with fabrics is that we just don't have some of the fabrics that they did in the 19th century. Here are some fabrics listed in Arthur's Home Magazine 1874 (Feb)- alpaca, serge, cashmere (April) silk, velvet, woolen, striped silk, (Aug) silk, grenadine, Indian pongee, batiste, poplin, Jacquard, swiss muslins, organdy, mull, nainsook, (Dec) cashmere, velvet, silk,
Remember that with 1870s you'll probably need a complementary color for trim: probably lots of knife-pleating or ruffles.
* REMEMBER (if you need lace). Cheap nylon lace will spoil the best-made dress. You can spot it a mile away. It's better to just use a fabric trim, like pleating, if you can't afford decent looking lace.
*REMEMBER to make a dress that YOU would have worn, given your age. Don't make a dress suitable for a 40 y.o. woman if you're in your 20s, and vice-versa.
*REMEMBER that some of the colors and color combinations back them are pretty shocking to us. Check your particular year for popular colors. You might be able to dye your fabric.
I hope I've helped. I usually stay in the 1850s myself, but I've made 1810s, 1830s, 1850s, and turn-of-the-century costumes. If you need more help, such as colors for a particular year, email and I'll try to help.
"Buzz me, I'm Fashion !" - Fashion Week Illustrée 2
![]() Victorian and Edwardian Fashions from "La Mode Illustree" List Price: Sale Price: $13.72 You save: $9.23 (40%) Eligible for free shipping!Availability: Usually ships in 24 hours See Reviews For This Product DescriptionOver 1,000 illustrations, meticulously reproduced from rare issues of renowned fashion magazine, present a striking array of women’s fashions from 1860 to 1914: elegant evening and dinner gowns, stylish daywear, wedding ensembles, bathing costumes, mourning clothes, cycling outfits and much more; plus detailed renderings of shoes, hats, parasols, and other accessories. |
![]() Wedding Fashions, 1862-1912 : 380 Costume Designs from "La Mode Illustree" Sale Price: $129.68 See Reviews For This Product DescriptionFive decades of exquisite confections of satin, taffeta, and lace for the bride, superb ruffled creations for sisters of the bride and scores of lovely pleated and lace-trimmed outfits for bridal attendants — all accompanied by exhaustively detailed descriptive captions... |
![]() Children's Fashions, 1860-1912: 1,065 Costume Designs from "La Mode Illustree" Sale Price: $179.92 See Reviews For This Product DescriptionFinely detailed illustrations from rare issues depict youngsters in hundreds of fashionable outfits: the tunic-styled chemise russe, unfitted pleated dresses, low-waisted smocks worn by both sexes, sailor suits, and much more — all beautifully rendered and captioned. |


































































































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